Care & Storage

The short version

Most knife damage doesn't come from cutting. It comes from what happens after: the dishwasher, the sink, the drawer. A simple routine prevents almost all of it:

1. Wash by hand with warm water and a little soap, soon after use.
2. Dry right away with a towel.
3. Store with the edge protected: a magnetic strip, a knife block or blade guards. Never loose in a drawer.
4. Cut on wood or plastic boards.
5. Hone often and sharpen a few times a year.

This section covers washing, drying, storage and transport. In my workshop, tools that are cleaned and put away properly outlast tools that aren't by years, and kitchen knives are no different. The guides below explain each choice and the trade-offs.

Washing: hand wash, almost always

Most knife makers say not to put knives in the dishwasher. Wüsthof's care guide says not to, to avoid damage from heat and from knives rubbing together. Mercer says its cutlery should never go in a dishwasher. Shun's retailer listings say hand wash. Victorinox is an exception and lists its Fibrox Pro line as dishwasher safe.

Why the dishwasher hurts knives:

• Edges knock against other items and get nicked and rolled.
• Heat and moisture dry out and loosen handles, especially wood.
• Detergent, salt and long wet cycles can spot stainless and rust carbon steel.
• Point-up knives in the basket are a hand injury waiting to happen.

How to hand wash in under a minute: warm water, a little mild soap, a soft sponge, wipe from spine to edge with the edge facing away from your hand, rinse, and towel-dry right away. My guide on whether knives can go in the dishwasher covers it in detail, including how to remove spots and restore a dried-out handle.

Drying: the step people skip

A knife left to air dry on a rack can spot where water pools, and carbon steel will rust. A quick towel dry, including the area near the bolster and handle, prevents almost all of it. For carbon steel, wipe the blade during cooking too, especially after acidic foods. My carbon vs. stainless guide explains the extra care carbon needs.

Storage options compared

Magnetic strips save space, keep knives visible and dry, and fit any knife. Place knives spine first and roll the edge onto the strip; wood-faced strips are gentlest on hard edges.

Fixed-slot blocks need no installation but limit which knives fit, can dull edges if you slide knives in edge-down, and are hard to clean.

Universal blocks use rods or bristles instead of slots, so any knife fits.

In-drawer organizers keep counters clear and can be locked away from kids.

My magnetic strip vs. knife block guide compares them in depth, including installation tips and common mistakes.

Blade guards

Blade guards are the cheapest way to protect knives. A few dollars each, they protect edges in drawers, protect hands, and make knives safe to carry. Victorinox makes guards in four lengths (about 7, 8, 10 and 12 inches), listed as dishwasher safe; Mercer makes many sizes, including a wide guard for nakiris and cleavers. Size a guard about as long as the blade and at least as wide as the blade is tall.

My best knife guards guide covers types, sizes and how to use them without dulling the edge.

Knife rolls

A knife roll is how knives travel: to culinary school, a vacation rental or a holiday at a relative's house. Look for enough pockets, long enough pockets for your longest knife, padding and a secure closure. Leather rolls age beautifully; fabric rolls are lighter and cheaper. Always put guards on knives inside a roll.

My best knife rolls guide compares a full-grain leather roll, a padded zippered roll and a budget culinary school roll.

Cutting boards

The board matters as much as storage.

• Wood: gentlest on edges. End-grain wood is especially kind to hard Japanese knives.
• Plastic: easy to sanitize, fine for raw meat.
• Avoid glass, stone, marble and ceramic. They dull an edge in a few strokes.

Put a damp towel or non-slip mat under any board so it doesn't slide.

Rust and spots

Stainless spots from water or acidic food: wipe with a little white vinegar or a baking soda paste, rinse and dry.

Light rust on carbon steel: a cork with a little baking soda paste, or a fine rust eraser, then dry and oil lightly.

Deep pits: cosmetic unless they reach the edge, where sharpening removes them.

Always wipe from spine to edge with the edge facing away from you.

Handles

• Plastic and synthetic handles (Victorinox, Mercer, many German knives) need only washing.
• Pakkawood and stabilized wood need washing and drying; avoid soaking.
• Natural wood handles (like magnolia on many Japanese knives) benefit from occasional food-safe mineral oil.
• Loose rivets or cracks need repair, not oil.

Knife care for families

• Keep good knives out of reach and, with small children, in a locked drawer with guards on.
• Never leave knives in a sink full of water.
• Teach the spine-to-edge wipe.
• Keep a dishwasher-safe "house knife" for household members who won't hand wash.

My kids' knives guide and knife safety page have more.

A care routine that sticks

Knife care by steel type

Cleaning storage

Storage gets dirty too, and dirty storage scratches and spots knives.

• Magnetic strip: wipe with a damp, soapy cloth, then a clean damp cloth, then dry. Oil wood-faced strips occasionally.
• Knife block: shake out crumbs, clean slots with a narrow brush and warm soapy water, let the block dry completely, upside down, before reloading.
• Universal block: remove and wash the insert, dry completely.
• Blade guards: wash in warm soapy water (Victorinox lists its guards as dishwasher safe) and dry before use.
• Knife roll: wipe the inside; for leather, condition a few times a year.

Moving house with knives

1. Wash and dry every knife.
2. Put a guard on each blade, or wrap it in a folded towel secured with a rubber band.
3. Lay knives flat in a small box, padded with towels.
4. Label the box clearly: "Knives, sharp."
5. Unpack them first in the new kitchen, before small hands or curious helpers find them.

Signs your knife care routine needs work

• Spots or rust appear within a day of use: drying is being skipped.
• The tip keeps bending or breaking: knives are loose in a drawer or being used to pry.
• The heel has a dip: heavy sharpening against a full bolster, or a coarse pull-through.
• Handles look pale and rough: dishwasher use or soaking.
• Knives feel dull a week after sharpening: glass boards, dishwasher, or no honing.

Fix the habit, and the knives usually recover with a honing or one good sharpening.

Why care matters more than price

A $35 knife that's washed by hand, dried, stored safely and honed regularly will cut better, for longer, than a $200 knife that goes through the dishwasher and lives loose in a drawer. Most of what makes a knife feel "good" over the years is how it's treated, not what it cost.

That's why this section exists. The habits are simple, cheap and quick, and they protect every knife in the house, from the cheapest paring knife to the nicest gyuto. If you only change one habit, make it drying the knife right after washing. If you change two, add a safe place to store it.

Sharing a kitchen

Shared kitchens are where knives suffer most: roommates, partners, kids and guests all have different habits. A few things help without turning knife care into an argument. Keep one tough, dishwasher-safe "house knife" for everyone, like a Victorinox Fibrox Pro. Keep your good knives on a separate strip or in a drawer with guards. Put a small note inside a cabinet door. And show people the spine-to-edge wipe once; most realize it's faster than loading the dishwasher.

All care & storage guides

• Can you put knives in the dishwasher?
• Magnetic knife strip vs. knife block
• The best knife guards
• The best knife rolls